THE ARGENTIMES

The African Gods of the Río de la Plata

by: Kate Stanworth | 10 August 2009
printed in: Edition 56 | section: Art
Pomba Gira da Praia -Photo courtesy Arte Brujo

The melancholic tango melodies and pounding candombe rhythms heard along the Río de la Plata emerged from an historical encounter of cultures: of European immigrants and African slaves. But while many would see the African influence in the region as something from the past, an exhibition at Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas reveals that a new voodoo-like religion is freshly adapting its Afro derived mythology to the European-style cities of Buenos Aires and Montevideo.

With its mysterious, often sexualised imagery and animated ceremonies, the Umbanda religion arrived in cellars and homes of poorer barrios in the region from Brazil in the 1960s. An offshoot of Brazilian Candomblé, it also shares roots with Voodoo in Haiti and Santaría in Cuba, religions created by African slaves who synthesised different forms of worship from their homelands on arriving in the Americas.

“Umbanda is a religion that is very much in movement,” says show curator Juan Batalla. “It’s still growing and there is a lot of creativity.” Along with fellow artist Dany Barreto, he brought together this exhibition of deities, religious inspired installation art and compelling photos of shrines, called ‘Dueños de la Encrucijada’ (‘Owners of the Crossroads’), which they also made into a book.

Exú and Pomba Gira

The project focuses on the imagery of Kimbanda, the specific type of Umbanda practised here in the Río de la Plata region that revolves around two gods, male ‘Exús’ and female ‘Pomba Giras’. These have many forms, appearing in the exhibition as caped figures that look like Mexican wrestlers, gipsy women, a red snake-headed man and a goddess based on Botticelli’s Venus. They are commonly said to be spirits of people who have had very colourful lives, tells Batalla. “Exús are often thieves, and the Pomba Giras are usually courtesans or prostitutes.”

These spirits are invoked in rituals by initiated followers, who offer them gifts of perfume, alcohol and cigars. “The ceremonies appeal to the senses,” describes Batalla. “There is drumming and singing throughout. People dance and those that are initiated fall into a trance. When the spirits are received by mediums they usually tell something of their story.”

Angela Lopez Ruiz’s video installation shows her partner receiving the spirit of an Exú, with his face contorted and hands making strange grasping gestures, while photos by Guillermo Srodek-Hart capture women in trances spinning in a whirl of opulent red skirts and scarves. Testimonies in the book give an insight into the powerful first experience of receiving a spirit, explaining how the presences are later invited to be compadres or friends, who they consult regarding problems.
Photo by Guillermo Srodek-Hart
Shrine of Pomba Gira

The devil?

Umbanda’s embrace of physical pleasure, including plentiful consumption of alcohol and cigarettes during ceremonies, and sexualised imagery like naked Pomba Giras and Exús with large phalluses, appears to clash with Catholic sensibilities. However there is something more obviously startling to the imagination of the region’s dominant faith: the appearance of many Exú figures as red bearded creatures with tails, hooves and tridents, identical to their devil.

Batalla explains that, rather than pointing to devil worship, the imagery comes as a result of the incorporation of Catholic imagery into the mythology, a process known as syncretism. “The gods of Africa took the shells of Christian saints. Some correspond with the Virgin Mary, and Exú corresponded with the devil,” he continues. “In Africa the figure of Exú was originally a phallic symbol with horns. When the Christian missionaries found this they identified it as the devil.”

In the book, anthropologist Alejandro Frigerio explains that the spirits’ association to the Catholic devil also has much to do with their corporality, sensuousness and closeness to the material world. He tells how the Kimbanda followers are divided among those who accept these identifications at face value and the majority who reject them or think of them as purely an ‘inherited folkloric reality’.

Some Afro-Brazilian cults are carrying out a process of ‘re-africanisation’, returning to the original imagery and leaving behind the figures that are currently used for the spirits of Kimbanda. “A decisive argument behind this motion is the necessity to separate from the devilish imagery derived from the syncretism with the Catholic faith,” says Batalla.

Visual Offerings


Ironwork for Exú - Photo courtesy Arte Brujo

Photos in the book cover the wide range of interpretations, from the Africanist shrines, with simplified, abstract objects decorated with cowrie shells, to the distinctly Argentine and Uruguayan ones in Srodek-Hart’s extensive series, which even include folklore figures of the region such as Gauchito Gil and San la Muerte.

Common to all the shrines is a meticulous attention to detail. “They must be carefully arranged to the extent that the very success of the whole affair may depend on both the intention and the visual production,” says Batalla. But in each temple, people are guided by what they feel more than a set of hard and fast rules. “There is no body of diffusion saying what is correct or incorrect in their religious vision,” he says. “The religion is not vertical. There is no leader. There are just initiated people that initiate others.”

While the unregulated, creative element of the religion inspired Batalla to study the subject, he also considers that it has attracted criticism. “If I want to start my own space and convince people that I’m going to initiate them, no one’s going to stop me,” he says. “There are those that are not so serious. But on the other hand there are many that practice with much care for those that follow them.” Indeed, despite the controversy, there are more temples all the time in the region, and they are working in a way that is increasingly visible and accepted.

The exhibition brings to the art gallery an intriguing glimpse into a coded world. “The idea of the show is that round the corner from your house there might be something like this that you don’t know about, and perhaps you are badly informed,” considers Batalla. To him, the religion’s unique imagery provides an entry point through which someone who has never experienced Umbanda might begin to relate to it: “More than anything I want to show the beauty,” he says. “There are lots of these altars that are very beautiful, and they have a force.”

The ‘Dueños de la Encrucijada’ exhibition runs from 6th to 30th August, Monday to Saturday from 10am to 8pm, and Sundays from 4pm to 8pm at Centro Cultural Ricardo Rojas, Corrientes 2038, 4954 5521/4954 5523, www.rojas.uba.ar. Free entry. For more information about the book of the same name, look at coleccionartebrujo.blogspot.com